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| Society 01 - 06 - 2004 |
| With Love from Verona |
It seems like a strange thing to do…but here I am in the midst of a medieval stone courtyard, rubbing the left breast of the bronze statue of Juliet. Everybody around me is also queuing up to get a piece of the action because legend has it that this unusual ritual will bring good luck in love. The brick facade of Juliet's thirteenth century home is marred by the graffiti of the love-lorn; the famous balcony (where Juliet engaged in sweet conversation with her beloved Romeo) stands as though poised in midair, a poem in stone, suspended in time.
Somewhere the line between the centuries gets blurred and a delicious sense of timelessness envelops me. This happens to me again and again in this 2000-year-old charming historic city of Verona which sprawls by the river Adige from the ancient times of the Roman era to the barbarian invasion, domination by the Delia Scala family, as well as the Venetians and Austrians. In fact history lives and breathes insistently here.
With love. From Verona, the world capital of love immortalised by Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, I distil the feeling of being a throbbing, glorious part of history in a unique way. Watching operas in its gigantic Arena where spectacular gladiator shows were staged centuries ago is just one of the many delights of Verona. You can ski in the nearby mountains, bike along Lake Garda and take off on wine weekends to the most picturesque areas of Soave and Valpolicella. The freshest of vegetables and fruits grow in this region, the cheeses are delightful, the honey is fragrant, the wine wonderful and the olive oil amongst the best in the country. Take your pick.
If music is the food of love, Verona gives you the opportunity to gorge on both. Opt for the opera season in the 1st century Arena. We sit where the 20,000 strong crowd used to, and instead of cheering gladiators, we revel in the operas of Aida and Turandot. It was in 1913 that the Arena was consecrated as the greatest lyric theatre in the world. The magnificent 2000-year-old Roman theatre still serves its original function and this is the scene of many an international ballet and entertainment.
The Arena is a symbol of this city but quite interestingly the patron saint of Verona is a Moor from Africa, Bishop San Zeno, who lived in the 4th century A.D. whose body is entombed in the Basilica San Zeno. I go past its monumental door bedecked in 48 bronze panels into an oasis of peace and silence and just as I am about to light a candle, the bell tolls from the bell-tower (like it's been doing since 1149 when it was installed) and once again, I nimbly criss-cross centuries.
Time stands still even in the Piazza bar, the heart of Veronese social life. Flanked by monumental arches and palaces, this large open space is where the Veronese stroll around. I lick my delicious Italian ice-cream (gelato), while watching a street magician and chat with Vikas, a Sri Lankan, who informs me that there is a substantial Sri Lankan population here. Shopping is also one of the pleasures here and I make it a point to indulge myself in the stylish Corsa Cavour.
Despite Verona's air of being caught in a time warp, something is always happening here. Check the calendar for the unique fairs held here. Choose from the Rice Fair in September, the Chestnut Festival in October and an ancient Snail Fair!
I attend a tutored olive oil tasting too. A superb photography exhibition at Scavi Scaligeri, drive across the river with Vincenzo, my cab driver, visit the Castel-vecchio, a 14th century manor house with a mighty crenellated bridge of the Delia Scala family which ruled the city; these are some of the highlights of my visit here.
To satisfy the romantic in you, walk to the heart of the city at night, pop into Bottega Vini, which has been wining and dining the Veronese for centuries.
Because of the remarkable variety of terrain, this area has more variety of food than most Italian regions. The countryside produces an amazing range of high-quality fruits and vegetables, (radicchio from Treviso, asparagus from Basano, apples, cherries and beans). The olive and grape cultivation here yield some of the finest oils and wine. It is at Vinitaly that I am seduced by the greatest wines of not just this region alone (Valpolicella, Amarone, Soave) but of Italy. Marchissa Antinori and his charming daughter Alessia ply me with their vintage wines from their seven centuries old Antinori estates and so does Count Aligheri (a direct descendant of poet Dante).
Finally, it is at Enoteca Segreta (Secret Cafe) that I have a truly Veronese experience. Not only do I eat the local fare— (marinated horse meat, polenta, pasta e fagioli, (a pasta and bean soup) salt cod from Norway (a great favourite here) topped off by tiramisu created in nearby Treviso but also enjoy our gracious bachelor host Carlo Neruzzi's company and wine. It is through the glass floor of the washroom in this restaurant that I have the unique experience of seeing 200 A.D. ruins. For the first time in my life I understand the meaning of the phrase, "time stood still."
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