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| Namaskar 01 - 06 - 2004 |
| Thai Me Up |
Thai cuisine is a cornucopia of the spicy and the subtle, the sweet and the sour, as Rashmi Uday Singh finds out
HAVING dined at the finest Thai restaurants in Bangkok, London and New York, I can vouch that some of ours compare to their finest as Thai food gets hotter. And why not? We have world class chefs and our palates have an affinity to Thai cuisine. We could do with many more because I trip out on the harmonious blend of the spicy, the subtle, the sweet and sour, and sheer pampering of my senses, equally pleasing to the eye, nose and the palate.
Whether chilli-hot or comparatively bland, harmony is the guiding principle behind each dish.
Though traditional Thai cooking methods were stewing and baking, or grilling, Chinese influences saw the introduction of frying, stir frying and deep-frying. Culinary influences from the 17th century onwards included Portuguese, Dutch, French and Japanese. Chillies were introduced to Thai cooking during the late 1600s by Portuguese missionaries who had acquired a taste for them while serving in South America.
A complete Thai meal would consist of a soup, a curry dish with condiments, a dip with accompanying fish and vegetables. A spiced salad may replace the curry dish. The soup can also be spicy, but the curry should be replaced by non spiced items. There must be a harmony of tastes and textures within individual dishes and the entire meal. Use of some typical ingredients makes a Thai meal that much more special be it, pea-sized aubergines, beancurd, chillies of varying intensity and size,
coconut milk, fish sauce or the hot peppery ginger (galangal) the refreshing kaffir lime leaves and lemon grass. Here's a quick whiff of my favourite restaurants in the country...
CHENNAI: BENJARONG
146/537 TTK Road, Alwarpet, Chennai Ph 24322640/52110061.
Timings : 12.30 to 3 pm and 7 pm to 11.45 pm.
Avg cost per meal, per head Rs. 350.
Fragrant Thailand breathes right here in Chennai. This way please — go past the deft vegetable carving lady and into an elegant, marble-floored, light filled 4000 sq. ft bungalow. The wooden tables gleam, the glass partitioned shelves are thoughtfully done up with priceless pieces of Royal porcelain called "Benjarong" and that is how this three-year old restaurant gets it's name.
I've always believed that chef-owned restaurants almost always have an edge over other restaurants. Benjarong, once again proves my point. Chef Regi Mathew, ex-Taj, is the chef CEO and wields his wok magic effectively. He's trained under some of the most renowned chefs of Thailand, You're sure to enjoy almost everything you order from his menu. Luxuriate in the rich aromas of spices, the astringency of lemon grass, the anise-like pungency of Thai basil, the piquancy of chillies and the gentle smoothness of coconut milk.
Ask for the old favourites — the subtly fragrant fish with basil and chillies, the delightfully tangy papaya salad, even the unusual raw mango salad. Go for the chicken wrapped in and infused with the flavour of the pandanus leaves and whatever you do, wind up with the divine stewed jackfruit with coconut milk and ice cream.
For all those slim of wallet but refined of palate, here's Chef Mathew's offering of a value lunch "Aham Glang Wahn" (Rs 158 to 178) plus taxes which has a main course, soup and dessert. P.S. Do try the complimentary "Mien Khum" which is served at your table. It is the Thai version of our Indian paan. Wrap in the crisp lettuce leaf, the coconut flakes, chilli pieces, lime shoots, chopped onions, roasted coconut and pop the paan right into your mouth! Titillation at it's most flavoursome!
NEW DELHI: SPICE ROUTE
The Imperial Janpath, New Delhi- 110001 Ph: 23344234.
Timings: 12.30 pm to 3pm, 7.30pm to 11.45 pm.
Avg meal for two Rs 1,800.
I have to confess that I spent as much time in admiring the intricate decor (even asked for a guided tour of it) as I did savouring the food here. Quite simply, the most astoundingly decorated restaurant in the city and the pioneer in serving comprehensive South East Asian food. Rajiv Sethi has outdone himself in recreating the art and architectural styles of Thailand, Kerala and other places. The Spice Route, serves up the cuisine of the countries which it influenced, from the Malabar coast through Myanmar, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, right upto parts of modern day China.
So you have a variety to choose from. Study the elaborate menu and hone in on the Thai fare here, especially the raw papaya salad, the lemon grass and galangal rich tom yum soup, the Thai green curry is flavoursome, the desserts may not be everyone's idea of a sweet ending, but the Spice Route is definitely one route you should take.
BAAN THAI
The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg, New Delhi 110003 Ph: 24363030
Timings: 12.30 to 2.45pm 7.30 to 11.45pm
Avg Meal for two Rs 2,200
Walk past the showcases of Thai artifacts into this elegant establishment with a stunning view of the pool. You can opt for the khantok seating, which is my preference.
Attentive service adds to the charm of your meal and the green curry here is to kill for. Since the menu changes regularly, it is a good idea to check with the maitre'd, but whatever you do, make it a point to try the curries and flat noodles here. It is in real terms, a five star experience, with prices to match. But so what? It's a special night out, after all.
BANGALORE: COSMO VILLAGE
29, Magrath Rd, Bangalore, 560001 Ph: 51127373
Timings: 12 to 3pm, 7pm to 11pm.
Avg meal for two: Rs 1,000.
"A smile, a glass of wine, food so fine, a great place to dine, life
is divine"...announces the menu of this relaxed multi-floored restaurant. Inspite of being on several floors, Cosmo village manages to retain it's cozy appeal, some of it due to the decor like one's own living room and some due to the vibrant personality of the Thai owner Pat Manaschuang. She brings her definative touch and taste to the Thai food but makes sure that the restaurant lives up to it's name and so includes fusion fare as well. The last time I ate there, the bamboo shoot soup and the chicken crispy prawns were divine. So also the tangy papaya salad, the phad thai noodles with the crunchy peanuts and the veg fried rice with chillies and basil. Of course, you can check out the fusion food as well. Whatever you do, experience the restaurant in it's entirety. While Thai food is served on the upper floor, the lower one serves up art on a plate.
RIM NAM
The Oberoi, 37/39, M. G. Rd, Bangalore 560001. Ph: 5585858
Timings: 12.30 to 2.30pm, 7.30 to 11pm .
Avg meal for two Rs 1,800.
Soak in the romance of the night, the shimmer of the candles in this open-air restaurant of the Oberoi. Raintrees above, Japanese long life fish in the limpid ponds and life couldn't be better, especially over the banana margarita. Do try the coconutty curries, especially the green curry, select the seafood from the beautiful display and request the chef to toss it up in a sauce of your choice. By the time you get there I do hope the pumpkin custard is on the menu, it is a masterly rendering of the humble pumpkin. But most of all it is the setting and the ambience that is sure to get you into a great mood. P.S. Business lunches served here too, but you can be sure that it is only dinner that would get me here for sure.
MUMBAI: THAI PAVILION
Taj President, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai - 05. Ph: 56650808.
Timings: 12.30pm to 2.45pm, 7.30pm to 11.45pm.
Avg Meal for two: Rs 1,300.
You must make a pilgrimage to Mumbai's mecca of great Thai food. It is the most consistent, great food speciality restaurant of the city. This 10 year old Thai restaurant is actually getting better with age. Chef Ananda Solomon, the maestro insists on using only the most authentic ingredients and makes authentic recipes which he has culled from his innumerable trips to Thailand. You can be assured of a good meal here, no matter what your preferences are.
The city's downtown hotel, the Taj President has expanded the restaurant but retained the wooden-pagoda elegance. Unfortunately the charming vegetable carvers have been moved out, but other than that, the tasteful crockery, the excellent presentation of dishes have all been retained.
My all-time favourites, here - tangy peanut-laced papaya salad, chicken and prawn dishes in fish sauce, the coconutty curries and the delicate and subtle dessert of water chestnuts poached in coconut milk infused with rosewater.
Check out the "Temple menu" introduced to mark the tenth anniversary of Thai Pavilion. Exciting new dishes like cubes of tapioca and water chestnuts in a tangy Thai dressing, young tamarind leaf soup, braised turkey breast with mango slices and peppers, will keep you delighted and going back for more.
Veggies have plenty to choose from be it stir fried tapioca or water chestnuts and cashewnuts with red chilly paste and even the delicious stir fried lotus root with yellow bean paste.
Lunch time is my favourite at this restaurant, it is also the most cost-effective. The well-priced set meals and the one dish meals are not just great value but also great on taste too. My absolute favourite is the lunchtime one-dish rice meal with toppings (Khao Chandios).
SPICES
Lower Lobby Level, JW Marriott Hotel, Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu, Mumbai-49. Ph: 56933000.
Timings: 7pm to 12 midnight.
Avg Meal for two: Rs 1,500
Dappled, dim lighting, green carpeting and the lush greenery of plants prepare you for the Thai experience in this large, restaurant of the JW Marriott. Walk up the pebbled walk bridge, past the open kitchen and profusion of spices and get ready to get a taste of Chef Villai Wan's cooking. Get ready for a feast as she weaves her wok magic here and you can look forward to fragrantly spiced Thai curries, crabs, superb silken bean curd and more. She handpounds all the pastes and spices herself. I enjoy the vegetarian fare here too and recommend that you ask the maitre'd to guide you through their menu. Sit at the interactive teppanyaki table if you're keen on Japanese fare or stick to the Thai cuisine.
Do keep in mind that the restaurant is open only for dinner and also includes a Japanese menu, (teppanyaki, shabu shabu, sushi) all done by Chef Koizumi. Its the place where Bollywood dines. The restaurant is regularly visited by Bollywood celebrities such as the Kapoor family, actress Rati Agnihotri and film producer Rakesh Roshan.
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