 |
|
| Back
to Articles |
| Namaskar 01 - 01 - 2004 |
| The Chinese have Landed |
Rashmi Uday Singh licks her lips, puts on her apron and picks her favourite restaurants for Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan and recommends the must visits
Here it is. My tribute to the most adaptable, sensitive, charmingly chameleon-like/ ego-less cuisine in the world. Chinese. The food that migrates to any part of the world and then proceeds to adopt the accent/ vocabulary and flavours of the area, be it Mumbai or Melbourne, Berlin or Bangalore. As comfy in hallowed restaurants as it is in stalls by the road. Even restaurants respected for their special cuisine — like Mumbai's legendary Trishna, for its Indian seafood — offer a Chinese menu, and so do most fast food joints. Which is why we now have our very own Gujarati Chinese, Punjabi Chinese, South Indian Chinese and, well, Jain Chinese! I have, over the past two decades, kept an eye on how the cuisine has developed. And these restaurants, across India, are some of my favourite vantage points.
MUMBAI
INDIA'S FIRST Schezwan restaurant has been reincarnated. The dragon has returned, stronger and more delightful than ever, with great elegance (including two private dining areas), plenty of wood and warm colours. Even the Chinese tea is more fragrant; the dim sums,
more delightful. All served in unique white crockery and attention to the last detail. Conji Crispy Lamb, the famous Peking duck, Asparagus (imported Dutch) Cakes, stuffed Shitake Mushrooms, stringless Haricots imported from Kenya — Chef Shi Xi Lin has it all here for you. Beijing duck, Maryland crabs, over a 190 dishes on the menu. Chef Raghu serves up unerringly good veggie fare too.
The Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai 400001. Tel: 56653366.
WHO SAYS history doesn't repeat itself? After shutting down his restaurant at Kemps Corner, the incredible chef-owner success story called Nelson Wang is back. This time, at Haji Ali. Chinese silk curtains, bronzes, antique gold and ivory finish chairs welcome you to this large new space at the Crossroads shopping mall. Nelson's fans are delighted with the fact that the popular dishes taste just the same; they have just the right flavours that dovetail with local preferences. Be it the punch of garlic in the Gin Chicken or the bite of the chilli in the Cheun Chu Prawns. Full-bodied and brilliantly adapted. I prefer to stick to the superlative Sea Treasure menu and the fabulous value for money Imperial Banquet.
Crossroads, 28, Pt M M Malviya Rd, Haji Ali, Mumbai 400034. Tel: 24955588 / 89 / 90.
WALK IN and meet Ahchin, the ever-smiling manager. A great place to drop in for a meal when near the airport. Even otherwise, it has all it takes to make a great restaurant — master Chef Chew Beng Huat, special Chinese wine made of dragon eye grapes, and lots of festivals. Could anyone ask for more? Not me. All three styles (Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan) are masterfully cooked and elegantly served. This is evident in the perfectly steamed Suimai, Red Snapper in Chilli, Crisp Lotus Paste Pancakes and more. Chef Huat believes in focusing on dishes for the Indian palate. Even the jasmine tea is fragrantly perfect.
The Leela Kempinski, Sahar, Mumbai 400059. Tel: 56911234. Extn: 606 / 607.
I ENJOY most things about this large and popular eatery. Its patterned ceiling, salmon pink tones, the sense of privacy on each table. Chef Pempa Tsering's wok magic is legendary and he specially flies in ingredients from China. I have always had consistently good meals here, plump dim sums served with interesting sauces, spiced Chilli Pepper Prawns, masterfully cooked Chinese Greens and more. Sunil Dutt drops anchor regularly for the Ginger Chicken, Honey and Pan-fried Noodles. Jaya Bachchan enjoys Crispy Potatoes and Chicken Dumplings. Chef picks? Chilli Pepper Prawns and the Sampan Special Chicken.
Holiday Inn, Juhu, Mumbai 400049. Tel: 56934444, 26704444.
NEW-DELHI
Never thought the title of a Marlon Brando Broadway hit would be one of my favourite Chinese restaurants in the capital, but it is. For several reasons: Canopies with Chinese dragons and an elevated pagoda over a goldfish pond make for an interesting ambience. Out of its vast menu of 150 dishes, the dim sum, Kung Fu Scallops, Stir Fried Veggies and Spicy Honey Chicken are the hot sellers. Chef La Ka Yam weaves his magic with Sharks Fin Abalone, Crispy Spinach and more.
Taj Palace Hotel, 2 Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi 110021. Tel: 011-26110202.
MUMBAI'S BABA Ling has conquered the Dilli-wallas palate and wallet. His incomparable seafood is served in a twin-levelled, elegant yet simple, restaurant. Head for a variety of freshly flown-in seafood. From baby abalone to superb crab and lobster, sliced fish, sugarcane prawns and more.
E 3 Local shopping centre, Masjid Moth, New Delhi 110044. Tel: Oil- 26477798 / 26437288.
CHENNAI
WALK RIGHT into this lobby-level handsome restaurant, past the tall sculptures, and zero in on Chinese chef Yang Jiayu's food. He not only hand picks his raw materials but also takes pains to ensure the authenticity of the food. Study the a la carte dinner menu with its tracings of maps, request the maitre de to guide you and enjoy the cutlery and Chang Mei containers. Check out the buffet lunch, the Peking duck, Crispy Spinach with Sesame Seeds and Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper Prawns. And do sip on some Chinese tea served out of an ornate gold teapot.
Shanghai Club, Chola Sheraton, Cathedral Road, Chennai 600086. Tel: 044-28110101.
KOLKATA
Think of Kolkata and the home-style Cantonese eateries of Tangra come to mind. While I have enjoyed some of those, it's been a while since I've been back. What I remember for its elegant decor, attentive service and Schezwan food is the Taj Bengal's Chinoiserie. Here, master Chef Xiong Yi Wen (a graduate of the Sichuan Catering College) conjures up Prawns in Red Chilly Sauce, Spicy Diced Chicken chong ging Style, Dan Dan Noodles and more. Do make a note of the little bomb symbol placed next to the spicy dishes. Enjoy!
Taj Bengal, 34/B, Belvedere Road, Alipore, Kolkata 70027. Tel: 033-22233939.
BANGALORE
I AM happy to report that this, India's only Chinese restaurant chain, has a consistency of standards that it keeps to in all branches. Elegant ambience and spacious settings. And as I've eaten at all their restaurants, I can safely stick my neck out and say so. Anjan Chatterjee and his team are a dedicated, hard-driven lot and, together with Chef Rajesh Dubey who masterminds the menus, they have a winner on their hands. Spicy Szechwan food, subtle and bland Cantonese dishes, robust Hunan gravies and some inventive Fukien food too. Go for the Crackling Spinach, steamed seafood, stir-fried veggies and wind up with Toffee Walnut.
Unit 1&2, 15/16 House of Lords, St. Marks Rd., Bangalore 560001. Tel: 080-2297872.
TUCKED AWAY, just off the lobby of the Oberoi hotel, this handsome restaurant is overseen by Chef Fu Chiang Lee. Vegetarians will be delighted to note that Chef Lee has enlarged the menu substantially. Tofu in Szechwan Sauce, Mixed Vegetables with Crisp Rice and Brocolli with Fresh Mushrooms are hot sellers. Go for the Sliced Pomfret with Chilli Bean Sauce or the Lamb in Hot Broad Bean Sauce. I also found milder styles from Hunan, Canton and Peking.
The Oberoi, 37-39 Mahatma Gandhi Rd. Bangalore 560001. Tel: 080-585858.
 |
|
|
|
