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| Free & Easy 01 - 09 - 2002 |
| Head for The Hills |
Head for The Hills Rashmi Uday Singh is pampered, fed, and rejuvenated,
thanks to some amazing hotels in Switzerland
Switzerland surprises. Its contradictions charm. Watch-like precision and
orderly cities are set amid wild, Alpine landscapes. The banker's orderly
city, Zurich, spawned Dadaism, the most rebellious of modern art movements.
In fact, the Swiss didn't invent the cuckoo clock. They did patent milk
chocolate, DDT and life insurance though. Here, these contradictions coexist.
I get an intense flavour of it and, when I walk into some of the most luxurious
hotels of the modern world, I find myself stepping back in time.
 Hotel
Baur Au Lac
Here, time stands still amid all modern comforts. Welcome to the magic reality
of the Hotel Baur Au Lac. 150-years old, and in the hands of the sixth generation
of the family that set it up, the hotel sprawls by a lake with its back
to the city. Yet, it is a mere three-minute walk away from the city centre.
Everything here spells timelessness, from the gleaming wooden reception
areas to the lobby, with its shimmering chandeliers and gleaming floors.
The deep-pile carpeted corridors reverberate with history, as do the rooms
and halls. I love the comfortable and exquisite marble baths and the different
styles of Louis XVI, Regency and Chippendale in the room.
Richard Wagner stayed and performed here, the declaration of peace that
led to the unification of Italy was negotiated here in the names of Napoleon
and Emperor Franz Joseph. Yehudi Menuhin loved this hotel, so did Walt Disney,
and so do I, even though I am nowhere in that league.
The flavour of the past infuses the historic restaurants and even the food
itself! I sit, bathed in natural light let in by the magnificent glass windows
of the summer restaurant 'La Pavilion'.
Crisp white table linen, gleaming crystal and a profusion of green from
the trees outside have me floating on a high. Then, the grand finale - the
chocolate mousse crowns the end of a magnificent meal with Domnik Schmid
and Chef Maurice Marro. It's easily the world's best chocolate mousse: light,
airy, yet intensely chocolatey and rich. And yes, it was an obsession with
Charles Kracht, the fifth generation owner who ran the hotel. He terrorized
the kitchen staff to make sure it was not too milky or sugary. Many years
later, when he was travelling with his wife on their first visit to South
Africa, he ordered a mousse in an upmarket restaurant. "I do not recommend
it sir. You will not like it," whispered the maitre'd, who had
worked at the Baur au Lac for several years and knew exactly what Kracht
liked.
Attention to these little details makes this the grand experience it is.
Even the Spaghetti Carbonara is the one made popular by the legendary actress
Gina Lollobrigida, who stayed here with the French Director Rene Clair.
Each superlative restaurant serves up a distinct experience. While the 'Rive
Gauche' is modern and sophisticated, 'Le Terrace' is set amongst chirping
birds and leafy trees. The famed chef Auguste Escoffier not only stayed
here but also named and dedicated his food to women. So, when you order
the Peach Melba or Crepe Suzette, you enjoy and flavours and also remember
what Escoffier said: "My secret is that all my best dishes were created
for ladies".
The ladies visiting here don't just eat though. They also work it off using
the state-of-the-art rooftop gym that literally redefines what it means
to be on top of the world when you exercise. I love the sheer expanse, the
light, and the treadmills here. Was it here that Audrey Hepburn exercised?
Or was the gym yet to be built while she was here? Somehow, the past intermingles
with the present and, as I wander through the 'Petit Palais', I swear I
can hear Wagner still performing.
How can I call this experience a mere hotel stay? Voices and inspirations
from the past float by as modern comforts coddle me. Alfred Nobel thought
up the Nobel Prize here, while Alfred Hitchcock, Marc Chagall, George Bush
Sr and Walt Disney stayed and immortalized the hotel in their work.
Johannes Baur, the baker who set up the hotel in 1844, would never have
dreamed of such success. Nor would he have ever imagined that he was creating
a seamless blend of the past and present, an experience so memorable that
it lives on and on.
Hotel Baur Au Lac, Talstrasse 1-CH Zurich. Tel: 2205020. For more information,
bookings and rates, log on to www.bauraulac.ch
The Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa Interlaken
Here, amid the spectacular beauty of the mountains, I take a true holiday.
Here, at the Victoria Jungfrau, a 137-year old hotel whose imposing exterior
dominates the boulevard of Interlaken, I feel rejuvenated. The hall, with
its high ceiling, first floor footbridge and glass lift attract my attention
at once. The natural daylight in the lobby contributes to the captivating
combination of contemporary know-how and a Victorian ambience. It's the
same in my twin-levelled suite with its wooden floors, private balcony and
a sensational view of snow-clad peaks.
The experience continues as I pad my way down in my fluffy white-towelled
robe to the spa. After a dip in the splendid Roman pool, I luxuriate in
the salt water Jacuzzi and Turkish steam bath before pampering myself with
a Clarins facial. Even the well-equipped gym rooms and indoor golf rooms
are worth a check out. In fact, this is a perfect location for those into
sports, be it sailing, surfing on the lakes Thun and Brienz, or golfing
on the 18-hole golf course.
No holiday is complete without great meals and Chef Peter Bruderli excels
himself. An elaborate French meal at the 'La Terrasse' restaurant showcases
his signature dishes. Dining at the 'Jungfrau Brasserie' is a memorable
experience too, thanks to its regional dishes and century-old ornamental
art adorning the walls and ceiling. The Victoria Jungfrau was set up by
Dr Ruchti, who purchased Pension Victoria and Hotel Jungfrau in 1857, then
redesigned the space by putting the two together. Many renovations later,
it stands, today, ready to energise and refresh anyone who enters. For more
information, log on to www.victoria-jungfrau.ch
Tel: 8282828. Email: interlaken@victoriajungfrau.ch
Lastly, an interesting fact. Almost half of Switzerland lies above 1,200
meters. The Alps provide recreation and relaxation, and mountain railways
have been constructed there, along with sports centres, hotels and vacation
homes. They stand tall, these stunning mountains, as a backdrop to everything
- silent sentinels watching over all, welcoming millions of visitors for
centuries. Some come for romance; others, for adventure; still others, to
find God. What they all go away with is a sense of peace rarely found elsewhere
on earth.
FILE FACTS
Area: 41,295 sq km (16,105 sq mi)
Population: 7.3 million
Capital : Bern
Language: German, French, Italian
GDP per head: US$26,400
Annual growth: 2 per cent
Major industries: Banking, insurance, pharmaceuticals, chemicals,
tourism
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