It’s serendipity. Here in Paris, Im participating in discussions where the worlds greatest chefs are sharing their views on the importance of evolution of cuisines. And right now, Im taking time off to write this review of “Tresind”, which is focussed on evolving Indian cuisine and calls it’s cuisine “modernist”. Since 2014, It has been blazing trails in Dubai where its set up by Bhupender Nath and spearheaded by the brilliant young chef Himanshu Saini, Tresind landed in Mumbai’s BKC in December 2018.. Since then, we’ ve dined here unannounced. Twice. Checked out all the different menus.
A feeling of pleasant calm. Copper and gold hued clad handsome room with a prominent bar. Hushed, understated elegance
Many dishes tell delicious stories. Others like “Birbal ki khichdi” are tutorials on the regional ingredients of India.Only 5 and 10 course Tasting menus which keep changing. Some deliciously memorable dishes: chilled Khandvi icecream does dandia with green chili pickle and crisp fafda. Refreshing Chaat ceviche of Amritsari fruit chaat does the bhangra to the tune of the tangy Peruvian leche de tigre.
Doing the nawabi nakhras, the bone marrow nihari and flaky croissant like khari is masterpiece in succulence and contrasting textures.
Bengal’s melt in the mouth kosha mangsho with green pea kachuri and ghoogni delights. A visual, gustatory and informative tutorial on Indias regional ingredeints: the marble slab map of India (dotted with spices, chutneys etc from each state) is wheeled by the chef onto the table. And these ingredients are added one by one to the khichdi. Unique and delicious.
The literal interpretation presentation of “Palangtod” is an audacious but happy marriage of Indian dessert with with orzo pasta.
Kudos to Chef Himanshu Saini, chef Sarfaraz Ahmed in Mumbai and baker-patisseur Rahul Rana.
The minuscule “snacks” of Dabeli, bao bhaji etc were too doughy. Some of the mixed marriages are unhappy ones: Lamb rosemary vindaloo,
Prawn Benedict hollandaise sauce cases in point. Ala carte menu deleted. The recently revamped décor of square tables lacks the privacy the round tables had.
Tresind in Mumbai serves up elegant, witty, streamlined and plenty delicious modernist Indian fare, with plenty for vegetarians too. Over the past ten months we dined here twice. Unannounced. Checked out it’s alacarte menu (they don’t have that anymore) and it’s ever changing tasting menus. Several years ago, at Dubai’s Masala awards ceremony I had presented Tresind “ with Dubai best Indian restaurant” award. Even so, the Mumbai offspring is clearly better than it’s Dubai parents (Tresind and Tresind studio) Mumbai Tresind’s dishes distil regional flavours with an honesty and present them with an oomph and panache sans gimmickry (except for a dish or two.) Tresind lives up to it’s name. It makes this “Ind” experience “Tres” chic. Tresind Jaihind!
Ground Floor, Inspire BKC, G Block, Opposite Asian Heart Hospital, Bandra Kurla Complex
Dinner Tasting menu Rs 2100 v/Rs 2300 for one
Lunch set 5 course..800. 900. 1200
Open lunch and dinner
RATING FOOD 4 DÉCOR 3.5 SERVICE 3.5
PRIME MINISTER’S PARISIAN PALACE
Happy coincidence. Landing up in Paris less than a month after our Prime Minister did, and staying in the same iconic Plaza Athenee which he choses to stay in is the stuff happy coincidences are made of. Over the past century, this red haute palace has played host to royalty, Hollywood and heads of state. Its triple Michelin starred restaurant by Alain Ducasse must be right after our vegetarian Prime Minister’s heart as it serves up only vegetables and grains and some seafood. Ducasse’s world famous vegetarian cookpot is also served here. The dapper superstar hotelier Francois Delahaye is the soul of discretion about what our Prime Minister ate in his hotel. Excuse me while I feast on the worlds best female pastry chef (also in this hotel) Jessica Prealpato’s patisserie. This is known as “having your Paris and eating it too”.